Papenburg - Venice of the North

High in the north-west of Germany and very close to the Dutch border lies the town of Papenburg on the small river Ems. This former moorland colony is crisscrossed by canals and is an Eldorado for cyclists and fishermen.

If you believe the many stories told about Papenburg and its founding, at least one of them mentions that the town - similar to the Australian continent - was settled by former convicts. These had the task of draining the infinitely deep and wide moor and making it habitable. In return, they were promised a plot of land and promised freedom.

This is not proven, but it is certain that already around the year 1430 the name of the town of Papenburg is mentioned in the chronicle of the Frisians and around 1630 the Count of Velen buys the present Papenburg area. He drained the moor, which was the subject of many scary stories, by digging long and wide drainage canals. And to the people working hard there in the north of the country to the point of complete exhaustion, he promises land to settle for the next generation. It is from this region that the saying originates: death to the first, misery to the second, and bread to the third.

The history of the city of Papenburg is therefore closely linked to its canals and can still be experienced today. The many streets to the left and right of the canals are all flat and have always encouraged people to ride them on bicycles.

Today, the Emsland/East Frisia region is a sought-after destination, especially for bicycle tourists who appreciate the fact that there are no climbs, especially on the roads along the canals. Occasionally they have to deal with the wind on their tours, if it blows against them. But if you have it at your back, exploring the area on a bicycle is even more enjoyable than in an open convertible. And everywhere you meet nice people, with whom you quickly get into conversation - if you want to.

Of course, for the visitors of Papenburg who are interested in history, a museum has been established, which illustrates the backbreaking work of the first settlers of the city. In the 'von-Velen-Anlage' you can see how laboriously the peat was mined, how the first houses were built from this peat, which were not even big enough to stand upright in or to sleep stretched out in.

Papenburg develops quickly and many small shipyards are built along the canals. They build pünten (small ships that can manage in shallow waters), which are used to ship the mined peat to neighboring East Frisia, where the rich farmers use it for heating.

Of the many small shipyards that existed in the city at the beginning of the 19th century, only one remains today. But this one has since achieved world fame: the Meyer Werft. It builds cruise ships up to 300 meters long, and when one of these ships is completed and transferred to the North Sea via the small river Ems, thousands of tourists line the small river and attentively watch the spectacle. But even if no ship is leaving the Meyer shipyard at the moment, a visit to this huge shipyard facility and the visitor center integrated into it is possible and, above all, worthwhile at any time.

Of course, Papenburg's canals have not been navigable for a long time. But in winter, they offer skaters infinitely wide ice-skating rinks, similar to those in Holland when, in severe winters, there is once again the '11-Steeden-Tocht' (the skating race through a total of 11 towns, all of which are connected by canals). Also in Papenburg you can see especially the children with their skates skating on the canals.

In summer, however, another species has conquered this water paradise. Everywhere you can see anglers going after redfish, tench, pike or eel. And they are tolerated on the canals, even if they have not acquired a permit. However, this only applies to the canals within the city that are rich in fish; for the nearby Ems or the Ems-Seitenkanal, you need a fishing license again.

Let's get back to the wonderfully flat roads of the region in and around Papenburg. Meanwhile, there are several well-designated bicycle routes that cover the entire surrounding area all the way to neighboring Holland. Even bicycle tours to the North Sea are possible from Papenburg. However, you'll have to make stops somewhere in between, as only well-trained cyclists are likely to be able to make it there and back from Papenburg to the North Sea in a day - even if you don't have to cross any mountain ranges.

Papenburg also has its own train station. From there, you can start wonderful day trips to the East Frisian Islands, for example. Norderney and Borkum, for example, can be reached by ferry without complicated transfers, and you have plenty of time to get to know the islands and enjoy the healthy sea air.

All in all, Papenburg offers ideal opportunities for a short vacation. And there is said to have been more than one holidaymaker who felt so comfortable during his vacation in the canal town that he settled there for good in his old age. Once certainly because of the healthy clean air, but also because of the still halfway acceptable real estate prices.

Copyright: Wilhelm Schröder